![]() It has two outlets on it so the settings are below. I’ve got a generic Tuya Smart outdoor plug that I flashed with Tasmota. So D6 change 29 to 21 and it works as expected. The button on the side of the plug works but doesn’t light up right now.įor the plugs that I had, the relay needed to be changed otherwise off was on and on was off. I removed entries from GPI04 and GPI05 to get rid of two extra buttons that were displayed in the GUI. One problem with these is they display as OFF in the Tasmota software when they are on. I also have some Martin Jerry smart plugs that I loaded Tasmota on. With generic it gives me three switch options in the local page but I’m only using one here. Just replace your non-smart switch with this smart one in 10 mins.īasic installation tools (screwdriver, wire strippers, voltage checker) I used these settings that I found and can’t find again from the Internet. It fits the standard mult-gang outlet plate, and outlet box. I have thought about changing out the WeMo switch with a ZWave+ switch just to standardize things a bit more, but the default setup here has worked very well.Īuthor misguidedute Posted on NovemCategories IoT, Uncategorized Tags Home Automation, Hubitat ZWave+ Leave a comment on The excitement never ends Tasmota Martin Jerry Smart Switch I think I picked that one because it was rated for 50 amps at 240 volts, where the Aeotec is only 40 amps. I think it saved the cost of purchase in about ten months. It has worked flawlessly for over two years and hasn’t caused me any problems. This is about twice the cost of others that are on the market now and doesn’t seem to be available any longer. I am using a rather expensive Red Coral Technology box using a contactor with a WeMo switch for WiFi control to manage the hot water heater. Aeon Labs makes an Aeotec heavy duty smart switch that can handle 40 amps or I could use a contactor and a ZWave+ plug to turn it on and off. The last piece is a shutoff for the well pump. So once a sensor triggers Hubitat can send a message to the valve and shut off the water line. I am thinking the Leak Gopher may be the way to go. The hub and the sensors are in now I need to look at the valve. Two sensors hanging under the kitchen sink, one goes over to the dishwasher and the other monitors the drain. The plan is to add a switch to shut off the main water line and another for shutting off the water pump. ![]() Another set of sensors in the crawl space by the water pump and the water heater. I have one leak sensor on the sink, one on the dishwasher, and a third on the washing machine just off the kitchen. Since I have been using this for a couple years I have an older hub, I think they are on version C7 now mine is a C5 I believe. The heart of the system is my Hubitat Elevation hub and multiple sensors located around things that can leak. Because of this leak and since I am a bit of a geek on home automation, I have set up systems to monitor for any new leaks. Installation Notice: Neutral Line is required, 3-way Circuit (Two switches for same light bulbs), 2.The kitchen has been remodeled and one of the reasons the kitchen needed to be remodeled was a water leak, causing a soft spot in the floor.Home Automation System: Compatible with Alexa and Google Home Voice Control (Smart Life Skill), Remote Control Anywhere (Smart Life App in iOS and Android), IFTTT, No Hub is required for Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch, Schedule, Share Alexa Dimmer Switches for Family Members.NOT support 0-10V, PWM, Dila, D-Max, Support INC bulb (400W), Dimmable LED Bulb (150W) and CFL bulb (150W) 3-Way Switch with Dimmer: Both Master & Add-on Switch are dimmable.
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